Evaluation of a daily facial massage on perceived sleep quality and well-being: A pilot study.

OBJECTIVE: Sleep disorders are widespread and constitute a major public health risk. The present study thus aims to investigate the effect of a facial cosmetic self-massage daily routine on women's sleep and well-being. METHODS: The present pilot study was conducted on 62 middle-aged women declaring daily tiredness and sleep troubles. We examined the effect of a regular facial cosmetic self-massage routine on sleep patterns, daytime sleepiness, and well-being over the course of 2 months. RESULTS: After 1 and 2 months, our results show improved sleep quality (Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index, PSQI - -20.2% after 2 months), reduced daytime sleepiness (Epworth Sleepiness Scale, ESS, -31.2% after 2 months), and increased well-being measures. The number of participants with abnormal sleep (PSQI >5) decreased over the course of the experiment as well, from 71.9% to 49.2% at the end of the 2 months [odds ratio 95% CI for decrease: 0.38 (0.18-0.81)]. Similarly, the number of participants with excessive daytime sleepiness (>10 on the ESS) decreased over the course of the study from 44.3% to 21% after 1 month [95% CI: 0.33 (0.15-0.73)] and to 16.1% after 2 months [95% CI: 0.24 (0.10-0.56)]. CONCLUSIONS: These results suggest that a facial cosmetic self-massage routine may improve sleep patterns and is likely to be a useful addition to a standard sleep hygiene routine.

OBJECTIF: Les troubles du sommeil sont répandus et constituent un risque majeur pour la santé publique. La présente étude vise donc à examiner l'effet d'une routine quotidienne d'auto­massage cosmétique du visage sur le sommeil et le bien­être des femmes. MÉTHODES: La présente étude pilote a été menée auprès de 62 femmes d'âge moyen déclarant une fatigue quotidienne et des troubles du sommeil. Nous avons examiné l'effet d'une routine régulière d'auto­massage cosmétique du visage sur les habitudes de sommeil, la somnolence diurne et le bien­être sur une période de deux mois. RÉSULTATS: Après un et deux mois, nos résultats montrent une amélioration de la qualité du sommeil (échelle de qualité du sommeil de Pittsburgh [Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index, PSQI]: −20.2% après deux mois), une diminution de la somnolence diurne (échelle de somnolence d'Epworth [Epworth Sleepiness Scale, ESS]: −31.2% après deux mois) et une augmentation des valeurs dans les mesures du bien­être. Le nombre de participantes présentant un sommeil anormal (PSQI > 5) a également diminué au cours de l'expérience, passant de 71.9% à 49.2% à la fin des deux mois [rapport de cotes avec IC à 95% pour la diminution: 0.38 (0.18­0.81)]. De même, le nombre de participantes présentant une somnolence diurne excessive (>10 sur l'échelle ESS) a diminué au cours de l'étude passant de 44.3% à 21% après un mois [IC à 95%: 0.33 (0.15­0.73)] et à 16.1% après 2 mois [IC à 95%: 0.24 (0.10­0.56)]. CONCLUSIONS: Ces résultats indiquent qu'incorporer une routine d'auto­massage cosmétique du visage peut favoriser de meilleures habitudes de sommeil, et qu'elle pourrait être bénéfique en complément d'une routine d'hygiène du sommeil habituelle.

Advances in the production of biosurfactants as green ingredients in home and personal care products.

Home and personal care industry is currently witnessing a growing demand for sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives to synthetic surfactants. This increase is fueled by concerns over the delayed degradation and environmental impact of the latter. To this, biosurfactants possess important properties such as biodegradability, low toxicity, and renewable sourcing. These qualities position them as compelling replacements of traditional synthetic surfactants. Their diverse attributes including emulsification, antimicrobial efficacy, surface tension reduction, and foaming capability, make them well-suited choices for home and personal care products. Biosurfactants can be produced through several inexpensive and renewable sources which contributes to their commercialization potential. This article discusses various microbial derived biosurfactants including rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, mannosyl-erythritol lipids, trehalolipids and lipopeptides, unraveling and comparing their distinctive roles and advantages in the home and personal care industry. It also focuses on the recent patent innovations in the production of biosurfactants which have aimed at improving their economic viability and performance attributes. Finally, the article sheds light on the challenges and future trajectories for better integration of these sustainable biosurfactants into mainstream consumer products.

Toward the eco-friendly cosmetic cleansing assisted by the micro-bubbly jet.

While numerous types of chemical cosmetic cleansers have been presented, those with sensitive skin may still experience some irritation while using them. Moreover, the environmental issue of chemical agents has been documented repeatedly. To address these, we suggest the potential application of a micro-sized bubble-laden water jet to cleanse the cosmetics without (or less) using chemical detergents. We devised a venturi-type nozzle with a mesh and air holes capable of generating massive fine bubbles. By testing with the foundation and lip tint (known to be highly adhesive) coated on the synthetic leather and artificial skin surfaces, we measured that the cleansing performance of the bubbly jet is much better (even without the chemical agent) than the single-phase liquid jet. As a mechanism for enhanced removal, it is understood that the greater kinetic energy of the jet due to the acceleration of the effective liquid-air mixture flow and the direct bubble-cosmetic collisions play essential roles. We believe that the present results will spur the development of environment-friendly cleaning methods.

Skin Deep: The Potential of Microbiome Cosmetics.

The interplay between the skin microbiome and its host is a complex facet of dermatological health and has become a critical focus in the development of microbiome cosmetics. The skin microbiome, comprising various microorganisms, is essential from birth, develops over the lifespan, and performs vital roles in protecting our body against pathogens, training the immune system, and facilitating the breakdown of organic matter. Dysbiosis, an imbalance of these microorganisms, has been implicated in a number of skin conditions such as acne, atopic dermatitis, and skin cancer. Recent scientific findings have spurred cosmetic companies to develop products that preserve and enhance the skin's microbial diversity balance. These products may incorporate elements like prebiotics, probiotics, and postbiotics, which are beneficial for the skin microbiome. Beyond topical products, there's increasing interest in ingestible beauty supplements (i.e. oral probiotics), highlighting the connection between the gut and skin. This review examines the influence of the microbiome on skin health and the emerging trends of microbiome skincare products.

Study of Processing Conditions during Enzymatic Hydrolysis of Deer By-Product Tallow for Targeted Changes at the Molecular Level and Properties of Modified Fats.

In most cases, the unused by-products of venison, including deer tallow, are disposed of in rendering plants. Deer tallow contains essential fatty acids and can be used to prepare products for everyday food and advanced applications. This work aimed to process deer tallow into hydrolyzed products using microbial lipases. A Taguchi design with three process factors at three levels was used to optimize the processing: amount of water (8, 16, 24%), amount of enzyme (2, 4, 6%), and reaction time (2, 4, 6 h). The conversion of the tallow to hydrolyzed products was expressed by the degree of hydrolysis. The oxidative stability of the prepared products was determined by the peroxide value and the free fatty acids by the acid value; further, color change, textural properties (hardness, spreadability, stickiness, and adhesiveness), and changes at the molecular level were observed by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). The degree of hydrolysis was 11.8-49.6%; the peroxide value ranged from 12.3 to 29.5 µval/g, and the color change of the samples expressed by the change in the total color difference (∆E*) was 1.9-13.5. The conditions of enzymatic hydrolysis strongly influenced the textural properties: hardness 25-50 N, spreadability 20-40 N/s, and stickiness < 0.06 N. FTIR showed that there are changes at the molecular level manifested by a decrease in ester bonds. Enzymatically hydrolyzed deer tallow is suitable for preparing cosmetics and pharmaceutical matrices.

Laneth Acetates.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed newly available studies since their original assessment in 1982 and a previous re-review in 2002, along with updated information regarding product types and concentrations of use. Considering this information, the Panel confirmed that Laneth-9 Acetate and Laneth-10 Acetate are safe for topical application to humans in the present practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Market analysis of the presence of endocrine disrupting chemicals in cosmetic products intended for oncological patients and other vulnerable groups.

There is growing concern about the presence of endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs) in cosmetics. We aimed to identify the main cosmetic ingredients with suspected endocrine-disrupting properties, and analyse their presence in current marketed products. Particular attention was given to products intended for susceptible (due to physiological status) and vulnerable (due to specific pathologies) groups with a view to informing cosmetologists and related health professionals of the scientific basis and current status of any concerns. Suspected EDCs used as cosmetic ingredients, included in lists published by regulatory agencies, were documented and investigated by weight of evidence analysis based on endocrine-related toxicity studies. In total, 49 suspected EDCs were identified from a sample of over a thousand cosmetic products marketed in the European Union. Suspected EDCs were found in approximately one third of products, with a similar frequency in products intended for susceptible and vulnerable groups. Avobenzone (CAS number:70356-09-1), octisalate (CAS number: 118-60-5), and butylated hydroxytoluene (CAS number: 128-37-0) were mostly commonly identified. The presence of EDCs was particularly high for sun care cosmetic products. Our results highlight potentially significant exposure through cosmetics to substances currently studied by regulatory institutions as suspected endocrine disrupters. EDCs are not yet universally regulated, and informing health professionals and educating the population as a precaution are options to reduce individual exposure levels, especially in vulnerable and susceptible groups. Special recommendations are needed for products intended for oncological patients.

XRF calibration with low-cost samples and implementation for quantification of inorganic elements in lipsticks.

In this paper, the preparation of low-cost samples, for the calibration of an energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence system is presented. The entire procedure is proposed as an undergraduate or postgraduate student laboratory activity, which aims to familiarize students with the procedure of calibration of a spectroscopy-based analytical method through the XRF technique. Furthermore, the use of XRF for the determination of elemental concentrations in samples related to students' interests, was attempted.

Safety assessment of Paeonia lactiflora root extract for a cosmetic ingredient employing the threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) approach.

Botanical extracts, widely used in cosmetics, pose a challenge to safety assessment due to their complex compositions. The threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) approach, offering a safe exposure level for cosmetic ingredients, proves to be a promising solution for ensuring the safety of cosmetic ingredients with low exposure level. We assessed the safety of Paeonia lactiflora root extract (PLR), commonly used in skin conditioning products, with the TTC. We identified 50 constituents of PLR extract from the USDA database and literature exploration. Concentration of each constituent of PLR extract was determined with the information from USDA references, literature, and experimental analysis. The genotoxicity of PLR and its constituents was assessed in vitro and in silico respectively. Cramer class of the constituents of the PLR extract was determined with Toxtree 3.1 extended decision tree using ChemTunes®. Systemic exposure of each constituent from leave-on type cosmetic products containing PLR at a 1% concentration was estimated and compared with respective TTC threshold. Two constituents exceeding TTC threshold were further analyzed for dermal absorption using in silico tools, which confirmed the safety of PLR extract in cosmetics. Collectively, we demonstrated that the TTC is a useful tool for assessing botanical extract safety in cosmetics.

Effects of the COVID-19 Pandemic On Patient Social Media Use and Acceptance of Cosmetic Procedures.

Objective: We sought to explore facets of social media usage and the effect of the COVID-19 pandemic on the acceptance of cosmetic procedures. Methods: At an outpatient dermatology clinic from October 2019 to June 2022, 175 subjects who were English and Spanish speaking and aged 18 years or older were recruited. Participants completed a questionnaire including demographic information, social media usage, perceptions of cosmetic procedures, and desire to have a cosmetic procedure. Results were grouped into a pre-COVID-19 pandemic group and post-COVID-19 pandemic group due to a natural experiment that arose. Data were analyzed to ascertain the effect of social media usage and other factors that impact desire to undergo a cosmetic procedure between patients before and after the COVID-19 pandemic. Results: Factors resulting in differences in desire to have a cosmetic procedure included using photo editing applications (p=0.002), following celebrities and influencers on social media (p<0.001), and following social media accounts showing cosmetic results (p=0.013). There was a statistically significant change in number of participants that: followed social media accounts showing results of cosmetic procedures (pre-COVID: 31.9%, post-COVID: 50.6%, p=0.036); had thought about having a cosmetic procedure done (pre-COVID: 63.8%, post-COVID: 86.4%, p<0.001); had discussed cosmetic procedures with a physician, dermatologist, or other professional (pre-COVID: 43.6%, post-COVID: 67.9%, p=0.001); and believed that a cosmetic procedure would help their self-esteem (pre-COVID: 47.9%, post-COVID: 77.8%, p<0.001). Limitations: Limitations of this study include response bias, recall bias, and single institution study design, limiting generalizability. Conclusion: Our findings suggest that time spent on social media and use of photo-editing applications significantly contributes to desire to undergo a cosmetic procedure and contributed to the rise of cosmetic consultations during the COVID-19 pandemic.

Use of in vitro ADME methods to identify suitable analogs of homosalate and octisalate for use in a read-across safety assessment.

Case studies are needed to demonstrate the use of human-relevant New Approach Methodologies in cosmetics ingredient safety assessments. For read-across assessments, it is crucial to compare the target chemical with the most appropriate analog; therefore, reliable analog selection should consider physicochemical properties, bioavailability, metabolism, as well as the bioactivity of potential analogs. To complement in vitro bioactivity assays, we evaluated the suitability of three potential analogs for the UV filters, homosalate and octisalate, according to their in vitro ADME properties. We describe how technical aspects of conducting assays for these highly lipophilic chemicals were addressed and interpreted. There were several properties that were common to all five chemicals: they all had similar stability in gastrointestinal fluids (in which no hydrolysis to salicylic occurred); were not substrates of the P-glycoprotein efflux transporter; were highly protein bound; and were hydrolyzed to salicylic acid (which was also a major metabolite). The main properties differentiating the chemicals were their permeability in Caco-2 cells, plasma stability, clearance in hepatic models, and the extent of hydrolysis to salicylic acid. Cyclohexyl salicylate, octisalate, and homosalate were identified suitable analogs for each other, whereas butyloctyl salicylate exhibited ADME properties that were markedly different, indicating it is unsuitable. Isoamyl salicylate can be a suitable analog with interpretation for octisalate. In conclusion, in vitro ADME properties of five chemicals were measured and used to pair target and potential analogs. This study demonstrates the importance of robust ADME data for the selection of analogs in a read-across safety assessment.

Use of Collagen in Cosmetic Products.

Collagen (CLG) belongs to the family of fibrillar proteins and is composed of left-handed α polypeptide chains, which, twisting around themselves and their axis, form a right-handed superhelix. In the chemical structure, it contains mainly proline, hydroxyproline, glycine, and hydroxylysine. It occurs naturally in the dermis in the form of fibers that provide the skin with proper density and elasticity. The review aimed to present the types of collagen protein, factors affecting its structure and its unusual role in the functioning of the human body. Also, an overview of cosmetic products containing collagen or its derivatives, the characteristics of the formulas of these products, and the effects of their use were presented. Throughout the market, there are many cosmetic and cosmeceutical products containing CLG. They are in the form of fillers administered as injections, belonging to the group of the oldest tissue fillers; products administered orally and for topical use, such as creams, gels, serums, or cosmetic masks. Analyzed studies have shown that the use of products with collagen or its peptides improves the general condition of the skin and delays the aging process by reducing the depth of wrinkles, improving hydration (in the case of oral preparations), reducing transepithelial water loss (TEWL), as well as improving skin density and elasticity. In addition, oral application of bioactive CLG peptides has shown a positive effect on the nails, reducing the frequency of their breakage.

Development of double-layer poly (amino acid) modified electrochemical sensor for sensitive and direct detection of betamethasone in cosmetics.

Screening for illegal use of glucocorticoids (GCs) in cosmetics by electrochemical methods is extremely challenging due to the poor electrochemical activity of GCs. In this study, poly-L-Serine/poly-Taurine modified electrode (P(Tau)/P(L-Ser)/GCE) was prepared for sensitive and direct determination of betamethasone in cosmetics by a simple two-step in situ electropolymerization reaction. The relevant parameters of preparation and electroanalytical conditions were respectively studied, including the concentration of polymerization solution, the number of scanning circles and the scanning rate. The SEM and EDS mapping demonstrated successful preparation of P(Tau)/P(L-Ser)/GCE. The electro-catalytic properties of the obtained electrodes were investigated using cyclic voltammetry and differential pulse voltammetry methods, showing a remarkable improvement of sensitivity for the detection of betamethasone due to the synergic effect of both P(L-Ser) and P(Tau). In addition, we investigated the electrochemical reduction of betamethasone on the surface of modified electrode. It was found that the process was controlled by diffusion effect and involved the transfer of two electrons and two protons. Then the electrochemical sensor method based on P(Tau)/P(L-Ser)/GCE was established and delivered a linear response to betamethasone concentration from 0.5 to 20 µg mL-1 with a limit of detection of 32.2 ng mL-1, with excellent recoveries (98.1%-106.8%) and relative standard deviations (＜4.8%). Furthermore, the established electrochemical sensor method was compared with conventional HPLC method. The results showed that both of them were comparable. Moreover, the established electrochemical sensor method was with the merits of short analysis time, environmentally friendly, low cost and easy to achieve in-site detection.

A combined toxicological impact on Artemia salina caused by the presence of dust particles, microplastics from cosmetics, and paracetamol.

Environmental pollution poses a significant and pressing threat to the overall well-being of aquatic ecosystems in modern society. This study showed that pollutants like dusts from AC filter, fan wings and Traffic dust PM 2.5 were exposed to Artemia salina in pristine form and in combination. The findings indicated that exposure to multi-pollutants had a detrimental effect on the hatching rates of A. salina cysts. Compared to untreated A. salina, the morphology of adult (7th day old) A. salina changed noticeably after each incubation period (24-120 h). Oxidative stress increased considerably as the exposure duration increased from 24 to 120 h compared to the control group. There was a time-dependent decline in antioxidant enzyme activity and total protein concentration. When all particles were used all together, the total protein content in A. salina decreased significantly. All particles showed a considerable decline in survival rate. Those exposed to traffic dust particles showed significantly higher levels of oxidative stress and antioxidant activity than those exposed to other particles.

Social Media Use in Dermatology in Turkey: Challenges and Tips for Patient Health.

Social media has established its place in our daily lives, especially with the advent of the COVID-19 pandemic. It has become the leading source of information for dermatological literacy on various topics, ranging from skin diseases to everyday skincare and cosmetic purposes in the present digital era. Accumulated evidence indicates that accurate medical content constitutes only a tiny fraction of the exponentially growing dermatological information on digital platforms, highlighting an unmet patient need for access to evidence-based information on social media. However, there have been no recent local publications from Turkey analyzing and assessing the key elements in raising dermatological literacy and awareness in digital communication for patients. To the best of our knowledge, this study is the first collaborative work between health care professionals and a social media specialist in the medical literature. Furthermore, it represents the first author-initiated implementation science attempt focusing on the use of social media in addressing dermatological problems, with the primary end point of increasing health literacy and patient benefits. The multidisciplinary expert panel was formed by 4 dermatologists with academic credentials and significant influence in public health and among patients on digital platforms. A social media specialist, who serves as a guest lecturer on "How social media works" at Istanbul Technical University, Turkey, was invited to the panel as an expert on digital communication. The panel members had a kickoff meeting to establish the context for the discussion points. The context of the advisory board meeting was outlined under 5 headlines. Two weeks later, the panel members presented their social media account statistics, defined the main characteristics of dermatology patients on social media, and discussed their experiences with patients on digital platforms. These discussions were organized under the predefined headlines and in line with the current literature. We aimed to collect expert opinions on identifying the main characteristics of individuals interested in dermatological topics and to provide recommendations to help dermatologists increase evidence-based dermatological content on social media. Additionally, experts discussed paradigms for dermatological outreach and the role of dermatologists in reducing misleading information on digital platforms in Turkey. The main concluding remark of this study is that dermatologists should enhance their social media presence to increase evidence-based knowledge by applying the principles of patient-physician communication on digital platforms while maintaining a professional stance. To achieve this goal, dermatologists should share targeted scientific content after increasing their knowledge about the operational rules of digital channels. This includes correctly identifying the needs of those seeking information on social media and preparing a sustainable social media communication plan. This viewpoint reflects Turkish dermatologists' experiences with individuals searching for dermatological information on local digital platforms; therefore, the applicability of recommendations may be limited and should be carefully considered.

The potential of Paeonia lactiflora pall seeds oil as a pure natural cosmetics raw material: In Vitro findings.

BACKGROUND: As a traditional Chinese herbal medicine, Paeonia lactiflora Pall is rich in various active ingredients such as polysaccharides and total flavonoids while having ornamental value. It has potential application value in the development of food and cosmetics. OBJECTIVE: To study the in vitro efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. METHODS: Firstly, the levels of linolenic acid and linoleic acid in Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil were quantified using gas chromatography. The impact of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on the proliferation rate of B16F10 cells was assessed through the CCK-8 method, while the melanin content of B16F10 cells was determined using the sodium hydroxide lysis method. The inhibitory effects of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase were evaluated by biochemical techniques in vitro. Lastly, the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM) was conducted to confirm the absence of eye irritation caused by Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil. RESULTS: Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil within a certain volume concentration range (0.5%-4%) had no effect on the proliferation of B16F10 cells. Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil showed significant inhibition of elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. Notably, the highest concentration tested, 4% Paeonia lactiflora Pall seed oil, yielded the most pronounced outcomes without causing any irritation. CONCLUSION: A certain concentration of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil has a significant effect on decreasing the melanin content in B16F10 cells and inhibiting the activities of elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, which can provide a reference for the development of pure natural cosmetics raw materials.

Associations of concentrations of eight urinary phthalate metabolites with the frequency of use of common adult consumer and personal-care products.

This study analyzed the relationship between urine concentrations of phthalate metabolites (UCOM) and personal care products (PCPs) used in adults and examined the change in UCOM according to the usage frequency of PCPs based on raw data from the 3rd Korean National Environmental Health Survey conducted between 2015 and 2017. The relationship between PCP use frequency and UCOM was analyzed using multiple regression analysis, adjusting for baseline factors. The regression model consisted of a Crude Model with log-transformed UCOM before and after adjustment for urine creatinine concentrations. Model 1 was additionally adjusted for age, sex, and obesity, while Model 2 was additionally adjusted for smoking, alcohol consumption, pregnancy history, average monthly income of the household, and PCP exposure within the past 2 days. PCP usage frequency was significantly associated with the UCOM without adjustment for urine creatinine and correlated with demographic characteristics, urine creatinine concentration, and PCP exposure within the past 2 days. This study on exposure to urinary phthalates will play a crucial role in Korean public health by aligning with the fundamentals of research priorities and providing representative data on phthalate exposure for conducting population-level studies.

Mass-Spectrometry-Based Research of Cosmetic Ingredients.

Cosmetic products are chemical substances or mixtures used on the skin, hair, nails, teeth, and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, whose use is intended to clean, protect, correct body odor, perfume, keep in good condition, or change appearance. The analysis of cosmetic ingredients is often challenging because of their huge complexity and their adulteration. Among various analytical tools, mass spectrometry (MS) has been largely used for compound detection, ingredient screening, quality control, detection of product authenticity, and health risk evaluation. This work is focused on the MS applications in detecting and quantification of some common cosmetic ingredients, i.e., preservatives, dyes, heavy metals, allergens, and bioconjugates in various matrices (leave-on or rinse-off cosmetic products). As a global view, MS-based analysis of bioconjugates is a narrow field, and LC- and GC/GC×GC-MS are widely used for the investigation of preservatives, dyes, and fragrances, while inductively coupled plasma (ICP)-MS is ideal for comprehensive analysis of heavy metals. Ambient ionization approaches and advanced separation methods (i.e., convergence chromatography (UPC2)) coupled to MS have been proven to be an excellent choice for the analysis of scented allergens. At the same time, the current paper explores the challenges of MS-based analysis for cosmetic safety studies.